Bicycle Cleat Fixing Bolts are used primarily for fastening a cycling cleat through the shoe plate with a matched length and seat. This page lists the industries and assemblies where they are specified, the selection criteria that matter for each application, installation practice, and the cases where a different fastener type is the correct choice. Parts are supplied to Trade series (bicycle cleat bolts). Stocked across roughly M5 to M5, they cover light-duty and instrument-scale work.
Typical Applications for Bicycle Cleat Fixing Bolts
The most common settings where these are specified:
- Cycling footwear: M5 cleat screws attach road and two-bolt cleats to the shoe plate.
- Bike fitting: Length follows the cleat, washer and shoe-stack thickness.
- Service shops: 4 mm hex sets support controlled cleat replacement.
- Performance cycling: Provisional torque is followed from the cleat and shoe instruction.
How to Specify Bicycle Cleat Fixing Bolts for Your Application
- Size: Match the nominal size to the mating thread or hole. This product spans M5–M5; check the full table below for the exact dimensions of each size.
- Strength class: Choose the property class (e.g. 8.8, 10.9, 12.9 or A2/A4 stainless) for the load and environment, and tighten to the matching torque so the joint relies on preload, not friction.
- Environment: For damp, coastal or chemical exposure prefer A4/316 stainless or a suitable coating; indoors, plated steel or A2 is usually sufficient.
- Standard: This product is supplied to Trade series (bicycle cleat bolts). Quoting the standard on your order guarantees interchangeable dimensions between suppliers.
Installation & Assembly Practice
- Tighten to the torque for the size and property class with a calibrated wrench — the joint is held by preload, not by the thread friction alone.
- Ensure at least one full thread projects beyond the nut after tightening, and never re-use a bolt that has been tightened into yield.
- Under slotted or oversized holes, fit a hardened washer so the preload does not relax into the hole edge.
Common Selection Mistakes with Bicycle Cleat Fixing Bolts
- Specifying class 12.9 "to be safe" in a corrosive environment — high classes are more sensitive to hydrogen embrittlement and stress corrosion; 8.8 hot-dip galvanized often outlasts them outdoors.
- Choosing a length that puts the shear plane through the threaded portion when a plain shank (partially threaded bolt) was available.
- Mixing stainless bolts with plated-steel nuts: the joint loses its corrosion logic and can gall or seize.
Where Bicycle Cleat Fixing Bolts Are Not the Right Choice
Not for permanent joints that will never be opened (a rivet or weld is cheaper), and not where the head must sit flush — use a countersunk screw instead.
